JAALI WORK - AN EMBROIDERY PATTERN

 The term embroidery is basically defined as the method of ornamenting a piece of clothing with needlework ;or embellishment with fanciful details.

Today, even though embroidery is amongst the most traditional methods of decorating clothes, it is still as popular. Designs may date back to ancient times, or the modern geometric modern day designs, but all the same embroidery continues to be one of the common ways of decorating clothes. In fact, specialists feel that today, there is much more scope for creativity and innovation, because of the acceptance level.

One of the embroidery pattern  is the jaali or net embroidery in geometric or floral shapes and is done by pulling the warp and weft threads and fixing them with minute buttonhole stitches. The finished products dominantly comprise items for household use like curtains, bedspreads, furniture covers and dress material.

Jaali work is a technique that is somewhat similar to threadwork and involves making holes in the fabric. However, the method of doing so is different from the tradition of punching holes in to the cloth. Jaali work involves pulling the warp and weft threads apart with a needle without breaking the continuity of the fabric. 

There are many forms of stitching and embroidery that have emerged over the ages as first a need and then a commodity. The need to tailor garments and mend holes was the basis of many of the most basic stitches that one sees in India. Other, more sophisticated forms, however, have been invented when the art of tailoring became a commodity, therefore increasing the demand on sophistication and embellishments in clothing. While embellishing with stones and thread is an option, in the earlier days it was a slightly more expensive option. The more convenient, affordable yet artsy choice was to use the thread and the weave of the fabric in itself for embellishing the garment. This seems to be the background to the origin of the Jalli .

The work of producing a jaali onto the cloth is done by warp and weft threads are pulled apart with a needle and tightened to give the cloth the appearance of a net. This makes holes with a regular circumference and also ensures that the strength of the fabric is not compromised. The artisan then works around the jaali or net to fill in the cloth.

The effect that jaali creates is similar to that of what a net fabric does. It serves to make the garment look more elegant and light Jaali work  has many varieties within itself. There are a couple of straight line jaali stitches that are known as hathkati and bank jail. Other more commonly seen forms of jaali stitching are bulbul chashm, makra, mandrazi, phool jaali, sidhaul jaali and Tajmahal.

The most used motifs on chikankari clothing are blossoms, vines, leaves and buttis. Within this jaalis are created. The technique of creating jalis has been noticed by many across the world. Many designers and governmental agencies who believe in the preservation of traditional art forms are actively trying to find ways to promote this form of embroidery.

(This blogpost is  a part of BlogChatter's #BLOGCHATTERA2Z2023)