DHARWAD KASUTI - A TRADITIONAL FORM OF EMBROIDERY

   Dharwad Kasuti is the most famous style of embroidery in Karnataka. The uniqueness of Dharwad Kasuti is that it just needs a needle, thread and creative mind coupled with patience and time. The artisans do not use traced drawings for embroidery. It is done directly on the cloth by counting the warp and weft threads. 

This traditional form of embroidery unique to Karnataka, reflects the art, culture and nature of the State. The craft is conceived, pursued and dominated by women and has become a medium for expressing their creativity. Pursued as a hobby in the in the olden days, it is embedded in the culture of the region and has also become a source of livelihood for many.

The origin of this craft  can be traced back to the period of Chalukya dynasty, between the 6th and 12th centuries. This handicraft, which originated in the old provinces of North Karnataka, later travelled to the southern parts of the State during the Vijayanagar and Mysuru dynasties.

In Dharwad Kasuti embroidery needle moves in different directions creating symmetrical geometric designs that look identical on both sides of the cloth. In most of the patterns, the design ends at the starting point. Usually, handloom cloths of dark colour, especially Ilkal saris, are preferred for kasuti. Bigger and intricate designs are placed in the pallu and smaller and scattered designs adorn the rest of the sari. The designs can also be found on blouse pieces called kana.

 There are 4 basic types of stitches in Dharwad Kasuti: gavanti (jawari), muragi, menthe and negi. Gavanti is a double running stitch while muragi is a running stitch in a zig-zag line. Motifs like squares and ladders are created with muragi stitch.  Menthe is similar to western cross- stitch and is used for filling the designs. In negi, long and short lines are crossed to give a weaved appearance. 

Most of the kasuti designs are inspired by local culture and nature. Interestingly, they are also inspired by rangoli designs. Temple gopuras, chariots, palanquins, tulsi enclosure, howdahs, flowers, animals and birds are some common inspirations.


Fascinated by the beauty of Dharwad Kasuti, many fashion designers have incorporated it in their work. Though normally seen on cotton saris, the designers from National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) have used it to add glamour to Mysore Silk sarees. These days Dharwad Kasuti is done Kanjivaram and cotton sarees also.


(This blogpost is  a part of Blog chatter's  #BLOGCHATTER A2Z2023)