BANJARA EMBROIDERY - A TRIBAL NEDDLE ART

 

The Banjaras were a nomadic tribe who originated from the Marwar region of Rajasthan. Historically, they were merchant tribes who traded all over north-western and southern parts of India. Now, they reside mostly in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. They are considered to be among the most colourful tribes in India owing to their colourful dresses and jewelry.

As the name suggests Banjara embroidery -  is a tribal needle art with  a combination of colorful threads, design patters, mirror work, stitching patterns appliqué or patch work. Embroidery is done on thirteen different colors of base fabric among which dark blue or red are commonly used. 

This nomadic group of Banjara practice till today the craft of Banjara tribal embroidery as well as mirror work. Originated from the Northern part of India, the popular tribe of Banjaras moved towards the Deccan Plateau in South India in 17th century during the reign of Aurangzeb, a Mughal Emperor.

The nomadic tribes of Banjara did not limit themselves to a single geographical location which allowed this style of embroidery to disperse across various regions, facilitating variations in the technique and designs. The community uses this style of clothing in their day to day life. The Banjara women wear the long skirt called as Phetiya or Ghagra and the tunic blouse called as Kanchalli or Choli. They use mirror chips, cowrie shells and coins to decorate their clothing. The Banjara men wear the Dhoti and Kurta  along with a colourful turban on their head and silver ornaments are worn by the men too.

Using a brightly colored base cloth, motifs for this embroidery are highlighted by cross-stitch in geometric patterns. Chain stitch and overlaid quilting stitch is also used for unique designs, sometimes embellished with mirrors and beads.

Banjara embroidery is essentially done on cotton cloth. Chain stitch, cross stitch, stem stitch, herringbone stitch, couching, appliqué work, mirror work, kashida and quilting are some of the stitches and techniques used. Often two or three techniques are used in one single piece of hand work.

With a combination of patchwork and Mirrorwork, the Banjara embroidery gives vibrance to the everyday ethnic look. It is included in both modern garments as well as the traditional ones. You can find Banjara embroidery on dresses, suits, lehengas, blouses, and bags. For a casual and bright look, Banjara embroidered clothes or accessories are the best options. A fusion look can also be effortlessly created by mixing a Banjara embroidered bag with a western outfit along with the signature ethnic look with traditional accessories. 

(This blogpost is  a part of Blogchatter's #BLOGCHATTERA2Z2023)