Zardosi is a type of heavy and elaborate metal embroidery on a silk, satin, or velvet fabric base. Designs are often created using gold and silver threads and can incorporate pearls, beads, and precious stones.
Zardosi is a form of embroidery prevalent in India, that originated in Persia. The literal translation of the term hails from two Persian words: 'zar' means gold and 'dozi' meaning embroidery, thereby translating into gold embroidery.
Zardosi in India received its fame and popularity through Mughal patronage. The zardosi garments worn by the royal begums of the court were as priceless as they were exquisite. Pure gold was beaten into fine metal taar (thread) that was used to embroider motifs on silk, satin and velvet.
Zardosi is an art which creates magic on the fabric. It reflects royalty and was known to adorn the attire of Gods and thus holds a distinguished place among all crafts. The common mango motif of Zardosi has found a place in the wardrobe of Kings and Queens of various eras.
The process of zardosi embroidery starts with a cloth (preferably silk, satin, or velvet) stretched on a wooden framework. The design is traced on the fabric and then the craftsman starts weaving the threads, gold wire, metal stars, and sequins through the needles and curved hooks.
Zardosi usually features geometric shapes along with floral designs. Zardosi embroidery patterns include circles and triangles into margins, creating a body of flowers. Borders often feature triangular forms with finely wrought floral scrolls. The corners are adorned with floral spray or peacocks.
These Zardosi designs vary from place to place. The states of India, which are involved in the making of zardosi works, are Lucknow of Uttar Pradesh, Gujarat, Ujjain of Madhya Pradesh etc.
It is interesting to note that the motifs used in Zardosi are the same old traditional motifs of flowers, creepers and jalis. As a technique, it differs from other traditional embroideries.
(This blogpost is a part of BlogChatter's #BLOGCHATTERA2Z)
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