CHIKANKARI- AN ANCIENT EMBROIDERY

Chikankari is an ancient and traditional embroidery technique that originated in Lucknow, a city in north-eastern India. It is claimed to be one of the most ancient and traditional embroidery techniques, chikankari embroidery history has its roots in the City of Nawabs.

The word Chikankari literally means 'Embroidery'. It is one of Lucknow's oldest and best textile decoration styles. It came to India as part of the culture of Persian nobles through Mughal courts, where the white on white embroidery was introduced. 

Chikankari is a unique way of designing fabric. It's an arduous process that is a compilation of designing, engraving, block printing, embroidery, washing and finishing. First, the fabric is cut according to requirement. Then it is block printed with design motifs on which the embroidery is done. 

Silk and cotton threads are used for embroidered work on drapes, dupattas, table linen, and kurtas. Chikankari is mainly done on cotton, although it may also be done on mulls/malmal, maslins, organzas, and polyester. Chiffon, viscose, georgette, polyester georgette, cotton crepe, and net are a few more.

Phanda and Murri are stitches used to embroider the center of flowers in traditional chikankari designs. Murri is rice-shaped, whereas phanda is millet-shaped, and they are often French knots.

Chikankari embroidery features numerous patterns and designs of muree, lerchi, keelkangan and bakhia. It is a detailed form of embroidery that often uses motifs of Mughal architectural themes.

It has also found its way into high-end fashion, with at least one handcrafted chikankari outfit now considered a must-have in a bridal trousseau, courtesy of Indian designers who revived the craft. “Like all classic heritage embroidery, chikankari is a weave design worn by people of all ages.

The popularity of the chikankari embroidery fabric has risen significantly. To provide a truly elegant and exquisite look to the wearer, chikankari outfits are a must-have for every Indian wardrobe.

(This blogpost is a part of Blogchatter's #BLOGCHATTERA2Z2023)